Scotland Day Four by Dave Hileman

Iona, it is difficult to share the experience of this island. The Christian presence dates from the early 500’s when a community was established by Columba, an Irish monk. The present church was rebuilt in the 13th Century (the Vikings were hard on this island ) and the Nunnery, nearby, a few years later. It was here the famous Book of Kells was written, monks from here were responsible for the early Christian effort in England, built centers of learning across Europe and re-introduced the classics of faith, like Augustine, as well as Roman and Greek classics that were lost except for the copies in Iona and a few places in Ireland. I have longed to see Iona and it did not disappoint. Some of the crosses erected for the journey of pilgrims to this place still stand. One carved 1200 years ago, one in the museum from 700. In addition to the wealth of Christian influence, this is the burial place of kings and nobles. While the numbers are not really known, 38 kings of Scotland are believed buried here. Grave coverings number over 200 covered with swords, symbols, crosses and more. These generally represent knights, warriors, kings and princes. And a few queens too.

We arrived on the island after a ferry to Mull (another island )- a one hour 15 minute bus ride on a one lane road but two way traffic, a smaller ferry from Mull to Iona. We arrived at 10am but that required a lot of planning and some timing on our part. we stayed until 3 then reversed the patten, got our car and headed to Glencoe about an hour north.

I am going to post some of the photos. Many more will be coming over the next weeks and I will be writing more about the time there but I need a bit of reflection first.

Tomorrow some of the spectacular Glencoe Valley. And don’t forget Rowena Brambleglen’s first report this Saturday.

Scotland Day Three by Dave Hileman

Another long day. We were up at five to catch the ferry to Mull, off the ferry and quick time to the 96 bus to Fionnphort - it was full but we were on, one hour 20 minutes on a one lane road - the bus driver had serious skills, and then the ferry to Iona. We made it on all and were on the island per plan by 10:15. What a magical place. Then we had to reverse it all to get back to Oben, pick up our car and get to our next stop an hour away. That is for tomorrow’s post. Today the rest of the photos I could not upload yesterday.

Plus the money story. Our plan to use our new joint travel fund debit card hit a snag. Neither of us could remember the pin. We tried three different time twice each. Meanwhile we needed some cash for the jaunt to Iona. We tried a lot of things but at 9:00 last night we still had zero GB bills. Finally Jill, who know where papers are put and in what order! called a good friend who has a key, who got us the number and presto at 6:30 this morning we had some cash. Once we got to where we were told it was cash only, it was not. The took Apple pay. So we still have all our cash.

We drove from Oben to Glencoe with dinner out of a box en route to get to our B&B not later than an hour past our scheduled time. They were gracious.

Yesterdays shots.

Bluebells

We hiked to the folly. Quite an “up.” See next photo.

That is the town of Inveraray on the peninsula and beyond a bit, castle just below the hill.

If you look carefully you will see the folly on the top right. This is from the Castle and we walked from the town. OK, Dave, you get a point for your effort.

Another castle (ruins) that we spotted driving to Oben.

Scotland Day Two by Dave Hileman

Whew. First we slept about 12 hours. And it is a good thing because right now we are at 8.3 miles and 37 flights of stairs. We hiked up to a folly at Inveraray Castle and the view was amazing. A tour of the town, a drive to Oben with a short stop at a ruined castle and then exposed a bit of the town and had a wonderful dinner. We also need to convert some monty to british currency and I will save the tale of misadventure for a bit later but as of 8:30 Tuesday we still have zero. Almost feel normal ( and I know that is not too good but it is the best I can handle) so perhaps tomorrow. Except we have to be up at 5 AM to catch a ferry to catch a bus to catch a ferry and then reverse. I either can get one or perhaps no photos to upload from here.

Scotland Day One by Dave Hileman

We are here, but I have not slept for 28 plus hours. We are where we intended to be, safe, good flight, nice meal at hotel and a couple of photos taken. See you tomorrow.

Loch Loman

Our Hotel began in 1776

Lilacs in the hotel car park

Ship in the harbor at Inverarary named for my lack of….good night all.

If is is Saturday, it must be about Food. by Dave Hileman

Jill, Carin and I ate at the Uptown Cafe in Bloomington before the opera Carmen. Uptown is well named as it fits both the locale and the ambience of the restaurant. Our food was quite good, attentive service and a quiet spot for dinner even with the restaurant rather full on a Friday night. We all chose different times from the menu many of the choices are Creole inspirited. TheShrim and grits in had sautéed jumbo shrimp, grilled andouille sausage, and cheddar jalapeño grits. Jill’s Pasta Chu Chu had Pastrami, julienne vegetables,Creole mustard cream sauce, and toasted breadcrumbs. The mustard sauce was excellent. My choice was a large green salad with baby lettuces, shaved vegetables, fresh herbs, mustard vinaigrette, topped with a fine fillet of grilled salmon. Highly recommend.

Anniversary by Dave Hileman

Cindy and I were married on May the 8th. This sign, now in a museum - tells you how long ago that was, is from our first “fancy” date about two years before our wedding at the Pittsburgh landmark, Kleins. I remember I had swordfish!. Always missed, always loved.

Two Lane Touring Hires a Food and Culture Critic by Dave Hileman

Two Lane Touring is proud to introduce our newest staff member, Rowena Brambleglen, food critic and culture connoisseur. She is filling in for Cadillac who is off on a year long sabbatical - and newly married. I will update his story soon. Rowena has an amazing story as well.

She began life on a rock off the coast of Northwest Scotland and enjoyed life like other puffins of her ilk eating seaweed and eels and snuggling up on the rocky coast each evening. Until the massive storm of 2012 rolled across the North Atlantic. Rowena, known then as bird #23087, was blown up and over her familiar rocky home tossed about for days, miles from friends or family. Exhausted from fighting to stay alive, starving, and battered by the wind she was ensnared in a rose trellis outside a remote country cottage. There she was discovered in the morning by a kindly cailleach (wise woman), named Cranara, a master of traditional Scottish cuisine by blending ancient techniques with current ingredients. She believed food is both medicine and joy—and every dish carries the memory of a place.

Carnara brought the drained puffin into her cottage, Bramble-glen. The kitchen hearth glowed with warmth; the scent of spiced barley stew wafted into the sea air like a siren’s call. She nursed her mystery puffin with oatmilk, honey tablet crumbs, and the fluffiest bits of Cranachan cream. Eventually she regained strength and her feathers again glowed with rich and vibrant colors. The beak, her pride and joy, re-acquired all the rainbow colors. Restored, Rowena  Brambleglen refused to leave. She developed a palate far too refined for raw fish and seaweed.

So with her new name a new life began. Her palate continued to develop enhanced by Carnara’s cooking and the ancient cookbooks that lined the shelves of the cottage lounge. After Rowena learned to read they were her constant companions. She kept meticulous notes on every dish and what minute changes might bring out even more flavors. She also discovered a 1967 edition of The Amy Vanderbilt Complete Book of Etiquette which became her touchstone for judging the world around her.

A most unique bird indeed with a kind heart. But, please, do not serve underseasoned porridge, for her comments could wilt herbs and deflate soufflés. Rowena keeps a feather-quill tucked under her wing and a journal titled “The Beak’s Review” which she will be sharing with TLT followers.

So we invite you to stay tuned for Rowena’s insightful commentary on food and life. As she has famously said: “If your bannock could double as a doorstop, darling, don’t serve it. Not even to photographers.”

Two Lane Touring Goes to Scotland by Dave Hileman

It has been awhile but Two Lane Touring is about to be traveling again. This time to Scotland. And most of it on two lanes or even at times single track travel. Posting will, I expect, start next Monday but not be up until Tuesday, I get confused about the time thing. We leave Sunday night for an overnight flight, so, yeah, posting from Scotland begins Tuesday. Anyway, Jill and I are excited. The trip to Scotland begins with a London landing then on to Glasgow where we get a rental car and end the first day at Inveraray. On Tuesday morning we tour my castle (you will have to wait for that story) then on to Oben, Iona which took some planning and then to Glencoe. From there we hope to see Glenfinnen Viaduct and Eileen Donan Castle on our way to Ullapool. Ullapool to Castletown is a 4 hour drive skirting the west and the north coast of Scotland. Scenery ought to be excellent. Then a ferry to the Orkney Islands and, in particular, Skara Brae village. Back on the mainland we head toward Inverness and three days in place to see the area before traveling to Edinburgh where we spend four nights just off the Mile. Finally a high speed train to London and three more nights before the flight back to Raleigh.

Hollywood?? by Dave Hileman

Two unique experiences for me occurred on Saturday. The first, and most exciting, was the arrival of the first of the DVD’s for KnoxCAM’s latest movie, Broken Road. The DVDs came from Amazon and are available to purchase or stream from their site. You can find the options at Amazon here: Broken Road https://a.co/d/12nFus3 . If you watch or order a movie please leave a review for that makes a difference in the way people can find out about the film.

If you would like to send a film - or several, to prisons you can do so at KnoxCAM.org - for each $10 a film is sent, postage paid to a prison across the country. Thanks.

The second most unique experience for me was to be involved in the making of a vignette for the next KnoxCAM movie. Apparently it is a practice to make a few short parts of a proposed film - a proof of concept, to share with potential actors, investors or others before the project is launched. On Saturday I was in a short segment where I lead a Bible study for a group of ex-prisoners. We were on the set from 12:30 to a bit after four to shoot a few minutes of film. But what a treat is was - even though I was type cast as the Bible study leader:) I had a ball. Working with professionals like Jill Holder, Kevin Wines and Jeff Green, the photographer, was enlightening and I even managed to remember my lines.   

(Wednesday and Thursday are big days here at TLT for more exciting updates and news!)

Architecture .5 More of the Miller House by Dave Hileman

A TLT note here to say lots of information on tap this week, stay tuned!

Sometime we will revisit Columbus Indiana and do more of the 70 structures designed by famous architects of the era but a bit more of the Miller house. We were only permitted to take photos while standing on a small carpet near the dinning room and from some spots outside. One of many interesting things about the house is that the walls and ceiling and most of the floors are marble but there is no echo or mausoleum feel to the place. Each piece of marble was cut with a sanding cutter and then finished by sanding more to eliminate that aspect. It gives the walls a soft sheen and a quiet beauty. One other note, you may recall that one of the paintings of Sunflowers by van Gogh sold a number of years ago for 84 million dollars, it hung in this house and was sold for taxes. The house with no furnishings, land, or gardens exceeded 400,000 dollars and is built on nearly 14 acres bordering the beautiful river. The gardens and the furnishings were also designed by the best designers of the day. Here is more about the house

https://discovernewfields.org/miller-house-and-garden

https://archeyes.com/the-miller-house-by-eero-saarinen-a-mid-century-modern-masterpiece/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miller_House_(Columbus,_Indiana)

If it is Saturday it must be about Food by Dave Hileman

Today we are back again with the Saturday Food post, mostly restaurants but we will venture off occasionally to home cooking and more. And to ensure even better and more consistent reporting TLT has hired a food critic. We will be joined by the FC in just two weeks. But, there will be an introduction next Thursday.

We rejoin the Saturday Food Post with the Bird’s Nest in Nashville, Indiana. It is a courtyard space with outdoor and indoor seating, a separate building with a bar and a coffee bar. It is not fancy and a bit worn but the food, wow. Excellent. It is open for lunch, dinner occasionally and breakfast. We were there for breakfast. Jill had a waffle that was way better than you would expect a waffle to be, with a honey-lavender sauce lemon ricotta cheese. Boring Dave - who will be sure to disappoint our new food critic, ordered hash browns, eggs, bacon and toast, along with coffee, of course. (It was superb.) The food was so well prepared that if they had just taken a moment to present the meal more attractively on the plate we would have been anticipating the tasty dish before we got to actually take a bite. It is a busy place and long lines (we were told) on dinner nights and lunches too. I expect we will be back to the Bird’s Nest on another visit to Carin and Evan in nearly Bloomington. Great spot in a very neat town.

Over our booth!

Architecture .4 by Dave Hileman

This one is quite a treat to see and unique in several ways. Completed in 1957 after four years of work it is a masterpiece of simplicity in one sense and of creative genius in both the house, the furnishings and the gardens. Read about it here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miller_House_(Columbus,_Indiana)

More next week and a Restaurant Review this Saturday! We’re back.

Architecture .3 by Dave Hileman

This is really an amazing building constructed in 1942 and designed by Eliel Saarinen who also designed the St. Louis Arch. Lots of information here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_Christian_Church_(Columbus,_Indiana) This was underwritten by the man who owned the Cummings Engine Company and was an elder at the church, Mr. Miller. Cummings produces some of the finest diesel power and much more today. This first building initiated an amazing feature of Columbus, Indiana, many municipal and private there buildings designed by some of the best architects of the age. See here for the story: https://columbus.in.us/guide-to-the-architecture/

Tomorrow we start to look at Mr. Miller’s house, wow. Mid -century defined. Then next week some spectacular TLT announcements. And more to come. Stay tuned.

Organ Screen

Architecture .2 by Dave Hileman

The word covers a lot of different approaches to design. This one is has a famous architect. And a great story. Lots more tomorrow. But for today, First Christian Church, Columbus, Indiana, as viewed from across the street through a large modern sculpture.

Architecture by Dave Hileman

This is a late 19th or early 20th century barn in a style typical of central Indiana. This one was found just out side of Nashville, IN. Note the small peak over the open loft access on the short side and the interesting angle this provides to the roof. Most of these barns are red or were red is a better description. Many of the barns seem a bit out of proportion with the end narrow than one might expect for the side of the structure.

Indiana Meanders .4 The Photo by Dave Hileman

I was out for the day with no real agenda but to take photos, a nice rare day. I was determined to get a photo that was as good as I could do “under the conditions” that presented themselves. As I looked at a few places I came across McCormick’s Creek State Park. The entry fee was $9 but the promise of a waterfall that was the main feature of the park, drew me in. There were some wild flowers, some nice vistas, an old inn that still offered rooms and meals and the waterfall. There were other options but most of them were closed because of tornado damage from the previous year. I found the falls easily enough and it was down about 60 stairs and then down a tight spiral, 30 step stone staircase to the level of the creek. I first saw the falls from the overlook and it did not look too promising. This is Indiana after all and we have the Smokies and the Blue Ridge so by those standards it was a pretty but small falls. It was also in a narrow canyon with fences to keep you from accessing it anyplace but the two viewing platforms or the base of the stairs. None of those places were going to get the best shot of the falls. I tried. I noticed a Red Bud tree framing a bit of the falls but only from the other side of the creek. So I nimbly (Ha!) crossed the fast flowing creek on some shaky rocks and then scrambled up a back to get the shot. Not good enough, some other branches were in front of the shot, so repositioned on a ledge about another 15 feet up the clay and rock bank. I set up the tripod and took 9 shots with various settings. Crossing back over the creek I had an audience of about 8 people on the viewing platforms, It was a question if I were to make it across before falling in. I don’t know what the betting odds were but they applauded when I made it to the stone steps.

S0, first up the best shot - my opinion, some of the surrounding area and two other approaches to the processing.

halfway across

From the viewing platform

Frist set-up, too many branches, more water to cross and a hill to climb.